No matter what time you come into Liliana’s Italian Kitchen, you’ll find diners twirling forkfuls of tomato-sauced noodles, folding slices of piping-hot pizza, and devouring meaty sandwiches. You might also see a few people waiting for to-go orders by the deli case or at the takeout window. It’s impressive, considering that Liliana’s remains open between traditional lunch and dinner hours. The Italian-American restaurant…
Read MoreTim Pieri's passion for pizza goes far beyond a hobby, a job or even a love affair. It's his life's calling, a journey that started some 35 years ago with his first gig in the restaurant business, manning the ovens at the beloved Rossino's (may it rest in peace). Everything about the long-shuttered Central West End spot spoke to him — the pizza, the warm aroma of roasted garlic and Parmesan that perfumed the air, the old-school…
Read MoreTim and Kathy Pieri’s throwback Italian restaurant, named for their teenage daughter, will charm you one way or another. To my non-native-St. Louisan surprise, it was Liliana’s take on St. Louis-style pizza that won me over. Its crust, though very thin, has chew and character and can support topping combinations both basic and elaborate. Order a pie and try not to sing along with the Sinatra playing on the sound system.
Read MoreThe first time I walked into Liliana’s Italian Kitchen, Frank Sinatra was playing on the sound system. OK. As I waddle into middle age, I’m willing to grant one on-the-nose detail to a new restaurant. Then I noted Liliana’s sandwiches: the Tony, the Anthony Jr., the Paulie. OK. I also love “The Sopranos,” and softened by parenthood as well as middle-age, I can let a second cliché slide. You can push me only so far, though.
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